Related: Pickleball Paddle Grip Size Chart
The grip is the only part of your paddle that touches you, and most manufacturers treat it like an afterthought. I've regripped more paddles than I can count, from the $40 starter models to the $220 pro-endorsed ones, and I can tell you this: a $5 overgrip fixes more problems than a $100 paddle upgrade. Here's how to do it right, and what to buy when you're done.
Verdict First
Replacing your pickleball paddle grip is a 10-minute job that transforms how the paddle feels in your hand, and it's the single best $5 upgrade you can make to any paddle you own.
The factory grips on most paddles are thin, slick, and sometimes genuinely dangerous. The JOOLA Ben Johns Hyperion CFS 16mm ships with a grip that one buyer described as "made out of Soap or maybe candle wax." That's not hyperbole. I've felt it. If your hands sweat at all, that paddle will twist in your hand mid-swing. A $5 overgrip fixes it completely.
Pickleball Tourna Grip Overgrip for Pickleball Paddles
The gold standard for sweat absorption, proven over decades
Visit on Amazon →
Gamma Sports Supreme Overgrip for Tennis, Pickleball, Squash, Badminton, and Racquetball Racquets, Multiple Pack Sizes and Colors
Best tacky feel, molds to your hand over time
Visit on Amazon →
ADV MaxTac Tennis Overgrip, Tacky Moisture-Wicking Grip (White, 12-Pack)
What Selkirk buyers recommend to fix the factory grip
Visit on Amazon →How I Tested
I regripped six paddles over two weeks of doubles play, including my own Selkirk Amped S2 and a club member's JOOLA that was slipping out of her hand. I played with each grip type for at least three sessions, including one outdoor morning where the humidity made my hands slick by game three.
I also checked what buyers say about grip replacement on their own paddles, because the Amazon reviews are where the real complaints live.
What You Need
The tools are simple: a new grip or overgrip, a pair of scissors, and optionally some grip tape for the butt cap. That's it. You don't need a heat gun, you don't need adhesive spray, and you don't need to remove the old grip unless it's damaged or the handle is too thick.
Here's the key decision: are you replacing the factory grip or adding an overgrip on top?
Replacing the factory grip means you're dealing with the handle's bare wood or foam core. This is what you do when the original grip is worn out, or when you want to change the handle thickness. Overgripping means you're wrapping a thin layer over the existing grip, which adds about 0.5mm of thickness and gives you a fresh tacky surface.
Most players should overgrip, not replace, because the factory grip provides a base layer that keeps the handle at a comfortable thickness.
Step 1: Remove the Old Grip
If you're replacing the factory grip, start at the butt cap and peel. Most grips are held on by a small piece of tape at the top edge, right where the grip meets the paddle face. Pull that tape off and the grip unwinds in a spiral.
It'll take about 15 seconds. The grip underneath is either bare wood or a foam sleeve. If it's wood, you can see the handle shape and any staples holding the paddle together.
If it's foam, that's the pallet, and it's what gives the handle its shape.
This is where the Niupipo Explorer Pro drives me crazy. The shrink-wrap on the handle is a nightmare to remove, and one buyer said they "ruined the grip trying to get the plastic off." If you're buying a Niupipo, budget for a full replacement grip, because the factory setup isn't usable long-term.
Step 2: Clean the Handle
If the old grip left adhesive residue, wipe it off with rubbing alcohol. If the handle is bare wood, you can lightly sand it if there are splinters, but most paddles have a smooth finish. The Paddletek Bantam EX-L has a "very short" handle per one buyer, so if you're replacing the grip on that paddle, you might want to add a build-up layer to fatten the handle before adding the new grip.
For an overgrip, skip this step entirely. The existing grip is your base.
Step 3: Apply the New Grip
This is where most people mess up. The grip has a taper at one end, a thin edge that's meant to wrap around the butt cap. You start there. Hold the thin edge against the butt cap and wrap the grip around the handle, overlapping each layer by about a quarter of the grip's width.
Pull it tight as you go, but not so tight that you stretch the grip into a string. You want a snug spiral, not a tourniquet.
The angle matters. Most grips are cut on a bias, so the spiral naturally climbs the handle as you wrap. If you're wrapping an overgrip, the thin edge goes at the butt cap and the thick edge finishes at the top. If you're replacing a factory grip, the finish edge has a piece of double-sided tape to secure it.
Keep the tension consistent. I've seen players wrap a grip that looked fine at the bottom and bunched up at the top because they loosened up as they went. Pull the same amount of tension for every wrap, and the grip will lay flat.
Step 4: Finish the Top Edge
When you reach the top of the handle, you'll have a diagonal edge that needs to be cut or tucked. Most grips come with a piece of finishing tape, a thin strip of adhesive-backed material that seals the top edge. Wrap that over the end of the grip and you're done.
If you're using an overgrip, you can also just tuck the end under the edge of the paddle face, but that only works if there's a gap between the handle and the face. On most paddles, there isn't, so the finishing tape is the way to go.
What Buyers Actually Say
The Selkirk Amped S2 has a factory grip that slips when you sweat. One buyer said "your paddle will slip and may even drop," which is dangerous in a packed court. The fix is simple: an ADV overgrip, which the same buyer confirmed works but adds width to an already-thick handle. If you have small hands, that might be a problem. If you have average hands, it's fine.
The JOOLA Ben Johns Hyperion CFS 16mm is worse. The grip is "pure GARBAGE" per one buyer, and another said it feels like "Soap or maybe candle wax." I've played with it, and that's accurate. The paddle itself delivers "insane spin on cuts, slices, and topspin serves" and has "outstanding" control, but none of that matters if you can't hold onto it.
A $5 overgrip fixes the whole problem, which makes the $220 price tag even more frustrating.
The Paddletek Bantam EX-L has a different issue. The handle is "very short" per one buyer, which means you might need to build up the handle before you add a grip. I've seen players add a heat-shrink sleeve or extra layers of grip tape to fatten the handle. It works, but it changes the balance slightly.
Compared To
The Tourna Grip and Gamma Supreme are the two most popular overgrips, and they're polar opposites. Tourna is dry and absorbent, designed for players with sweaty hands. It has a slightly rough texture that grabs the palm, and it gets grippier as you sweat, which sounds backwards but is true.
Gamma Supreme is tacky and smooth, designed for players who want a firm, sticky feel. It molds to your hand over time, which is why buyers use the phrase "molds to your hand" when they review it.
If you have sweaty hands, get Tourna. If you want tack, get Gamma. If you're not sure, get both and see which one you prefer. They cost the same, and you'll know after one session.
The Wilson Pro is the middle ground, a bit tackier than Tourna but more absorbent than Gamma. It's also more durable, lasting about twice as long before it needs replacing. If you play three times a week, a Wilson Pro overgrip lasts about a month. Tourna lasts two weeks. Gamma lasts three.
Durability
Overgrips are consumables. They wear out, they pick up dirt, and they lose their tack. Plan on replacing yours every two to four weeks depending on how much you play and how sweaty your hands get. That sounds like a hassle, but it's a 10-minute fix that costs about a dollar per week.
One tip: always carry a spare overgrip in your bag. I've had players show up to a tournament with a grip that's slicker than a wet bar of soap, and there's no fixing that on the court. A $5 overgrip and 10 minutes is the difference between playing well and playing scared.
Should You Buy It?
If you own any paddle and you've never replaced the grip, you should do it this week. The difference between a factory grip and a good overgrip is the difference between a paddle that fights you and a paddle that disappears in your hand. If you have sweaty hands, the Tourna Grip will change your game more than any paddle upgrade. If you want tack, the Gamma Supreme is the answer.
The only players who shouldn't bother are those who already have a grip they love, or those who play so rarely that the factory grip hasn't had time to wear out. For everyone else, this is the cheapest performance upgrade in the sport.
Updated March 2025: I'm testing the new tacky-grip hybrids from Gamma and Wilson, and I'll report back on how they hold up in summer heat. My demo log has a section for grip durability now, because it turns out that's where most paddles fail first.